All About Russian Manicures and BIAB Nails
(Photo : Vecteezy / Mariia Kokorina)

Trends in nails and manicures are mainstays in social media and video-sharing platforms. Take, for example, Russian manicures and Builder In A Bottle (BIAB) nails.

These two different trends are gaining a lot of traction, especially among celebrities. They were named by beauty trend tracker Spate as the top-growing nail service trends right now. 

Both Russian manicures and BIAB nails are known for their durability, lasting for several weeks with proper care. They use gel-like products and a UV lamp for curing.

These two manicure types focus on maintaining the health of the natural nail. Russian manicures prioritize the health of the nail by avoiding excessive filing or cutting of the cuticles, and BIAB nails strengthen the natural nails with their gel-like formula.

When it comes to appearance, both manicures result in a natural and elegant look, enhancing the appearance of the nails without looking overly artificial.

While they share these similarities, it's important to note that they are different techniques with their unique processes and outcomes.

Russian Manicures

Russian manicures are gaining popularity for their long-lasting results, lasting up to three to five weeks. This dry manicure technique skips the soaking step, offering a durable alternative.

The process, also known as an electric file manicure, involves using a drill bit to shape the nails and remove cuticles without water. This detailed approach targets the thick dry skin at the base of the nail to ensure a flawless finish.

While some debate exists over cutting this bit, the Russian manicure remains a sought-after technique for its precision and durability.

What to Expect

In a Russian manicure, your hands are not soaked in water. Instead, electric nail bits are used to clean the nail bed and remove the cuticles. The process includes cleaning the nail bed, removing the cuticle, and polishing the nail bed to create the desired shape.

A specially formulated base coat is applied before colored polish, which is applied close to the cuticle with a thin brush. The technique caters to individual needs, with the base coat selected based on nail length and strength. Quality gel polish is used to ensure long-lasting results, applied in a detailed process that can take two to three hours.

Pros and Cons

Russian manicures have several pros and cons to consider. On the positive side, they focus on nail health, using non-toxic hard gel extensions that are durable and long-lasting.

Unlike other techniques, Russian manicures avoid harmful acrylics and toxic gel polishes. They can last up to five weeks without needing a touch-up and prioritize the individual's nail health over length and design.

However, there are potential risks like skin and nail damage if the electric drill bit is misused or applied too aggressively. Pain or discomfort can occur, especially for those with sensitive skin or nails. Additionally, improper filing can compromise the cuticle's seal, increasing the risk of infection and moisture loss.

To prevent damage, it is crucial to select a technician with extensive experience and training in Russian manicures.

BIAB Nails

BIAB Nails offer a stronger and longer-lasting gel manicure using a gel-like nail polish.

BIAB is considered a promising innovation in the nail space, offering a middle ground between gel and shellac that hardens under a UV lamp. Its integrated primer and bonding agent reduce the number of steps needed and ensure excellent adhesion. BIAB gel can last up to three to five weeks, growing out naturally with the nail, and is known for being vegan and cruelty-free.

What to Expect

To apply BIAB gel, the natural nails are prepared by gently removing the cuticles and lightly roughening the shiny layer. The gel is then applied directly to the nail without a base coat and cured under a special UV lamp for 30 seconds. A topcoat is applied to seal and provide shine, and any excess gel is filed away.

The process is quick, taking about half an hour, and requires only two products.

BIAB gel is known for its ease of removal, with nail studios using gentle ceramic bits instead of harsh grinding bits. At home, BIAB gel can be removed by roughening the gel, applying nail polish remover with acetone, and gently pushing back the gel.

Pros and Cons

BIAB nails offer a range of benefits, including suitability for those not allergic to the ingredients and a variety of shades to choose from.

The gel can also help with issues like nail-biting and cracked or brittle nails, promoting healthier nail growth after just a few applications.

However, caution is advised when using at-home BIAB products, as they may contain ingredients that could cause onycholysis, the separation of the nail from the nail bed. It is also important to test if you are allergic to the product before using it.

Additionally, while BIAB nails can be filled or extended, the gel's elasticity limits the lengthening to about half a centimeter. Overall, BIAB nails provide a convenient and cost-effective alternative to salon acrylic nails but require careful consideration of potential risks.